the 1 year mark.

Happy 1 Year Anniversary to me , and Jeff, and Chengdu. It’s been an amazing year, and it’s crazy to reflect on the ways I’ve developed as a person, an ex-pat, a student, a wanderlust-er, etc.  Our adventure has unfolded in so many interesting ways.

Of course there have been seemingly insurmountable obstacles (a bone-freezing winter, eternal traffic chaos, routine stomachaches, a language barrier, the general bureaucracy of accomplishing normal things like renting an apartment or paying a bill, questionable sanitation practices and lots of baby pee, air quality not conducive to clean, pink lungs, etc, etc ) but the year has also been a series of lessons and blessings (an amazing appreciation for local cuisine, hospitable and generous new friends, the gratification of progress learning a beautiful and challenging language, a once in a lifetime road trip across China, an insane month on the beaches of Thailand, the connections to new people and places that result from life as an ex-pat, the improvement in my baking skills to compensate for lack of real cookies-muffins-cakes-bread, introduction to the art of “hashing“, hour long reflexology treatments for $5, etc, etc).

Most of all, I’ve learned (read: am still trying to learn) to live in the moment, appreciate what I’ve got, and above all – just be patient. More than anything else, patience is a critical requirement of living in China, and a virtue I haven’t always had much of. I have no idea if I’ll still be here a year from now, or even a month from now (here’s hoping I can extend my visa) but making it through our first year here is worth celebrating.

first night in chengdu. first fapiao victory.

beginning of our love affair with late night bbq.

first china boat ride ... hangzhou

first chinese new year!

rabbit + tiger <3

moving on up.

We’re not homeless! It’s a nice feeling. The past 2 weeks have involved a lot of packing, cleaning, spending money, moving, spending more money, picking up heavy shit, unpacking boxes, and organizing our new space. And a pretty epic housewarming party.

As I mentioned before, I toured a dizzying number of apartments in search of The One. Early on, we were shown a place that we were in unusual accord on. The unit was spacious and well-priced, with a lot more room and a much better layout than our last apartment (you don’t have to listen to someone pee while you’re sitting at the dinner table, a nice upgrade). We told the agent we wanted it.

The next day, 2 different agents showed me the same exact apartment, which I took as some higher-power-confirmation that the apartment was meant for us. Unfortunately, my original agent called the next morning saying the deal was off because the landlord was refusing to pay the necessary commission to Century 21 ( 1 months rent typically split between tenant and landlord.) We were disappointed and I was frazzled, because we had 72 hours to find a new apartment and move. The next day yet another agent happened to show me the unit directly next door to the apartment we had wanted. I noticed the door was ajar and bolted from my agent escort, slipping inside the apartment and happening upon whom I assumed to be the landlady. In incredibly broken Chinese I tried to explain  that we looked at her apartment before and really wanted it, frantic as the Century 21 agent was approaching from behind to interrupt our meeting of fate. The amused landlady responded, “Do you want to just speak English? I speak English.”

And so, in her absolutely fluent English, we agreed to meet later that night and work out a deal without the greedy, overeager Century 21 agents (OK – they’re not greedy, just doing their job, but saving 1,000 RMB sure feels good). Not only did we find a great deal, but we also found a great landlady. Her kindness has been yet another reminder of one of the greatest things about living here – in America, if someone (especially a landlord; a relationship that is notoriously distant at best tense at worst) was being this generous and helpful, I would wonder what’s the catch; in Chengdu, the people you develop relationships with -for any number of reasons – are often just that kind and helpful.

 

party party.

WTF Sedaris!

At the moment I’m a little short on time, internet, and patience. Sipping an iced chrysantheum puerh tea at Bingo Bagel (a note to BB: get with the program, bagels are a breakfast food, NOT best consumed at 9:30 pm when you finally take your hot bagels out of the oven), I was going to make a delayed attempt at expressing my not-so-positive opinion on David Sedaris’ piece in the Guardian a week or so ago recounting his generally disgusted impressions of his time in Beijing and Chengdu; an article that was sensationally vivid, painfully elitist, and predictably whiny and sarcastic. I’m down with the whiny sarcasm, and generally down with Sedaris, but this went too far (maybe my return to Chengdu is turning me soft).

Most irritating are his digs at Chinese food on the whole, and specifically what Chengdu had on offer, and his unnecessary (and apples to oranges) observation that Japan, specifically Tokyo, kicks China’s ass in areas of hygiene, convenience, food, etc etc. I think the two countries have enough issues without Sedaris throwing his biased weight on one side without a proper understanding (or remote appreciation) of the other. Anyways, I made the mistake of reading my friend Ashley’s response first, and now I basically have nothing to say that wouldn’t be complete plagiarism. I’m in complete consensus with all of her points. So, if you love Chengdu, or hate Chengdu; if you’re interested or disinterested, I still suggest you read her blog post on the matter:

Dear Mr. Sedaris, it’s Chicken Feet. Get it Straight. 

mahjong, puppies, and pains in the ass

This week has been FILLED with excitement, as I am faced with an enviable array of challenges: uncertain employment, the termination of our current lease, the securing of a new apartment (the collateral pain of packing up and moving buildings) and of course the ever-present headache of accomplishing all tasks with a gigantic language barrier. Although I must admit, I have surprised myself with the amount of Chinese I’ve been able to employ in the past 5 days – getting all my basic points across: “too expensive,” “too dirty,” “too loud,” “no, i won’t pay an entire year up front,” “no, i cannot only have a squat toilet,” etc. I have no doubt annoyed and impressed many a Century 21 real estate agent; I believe I’ve toured at least 20 apartments with at least 6 different agents. It’s been intense.

At least there have been moments of amusement thrown in. Like the most recent canine additions to our street –  3 TINY, squinting puppies stumbling around on wobbly legs under the watchful eye of the mama dog. They’re “owned” by a man who runs two businesses out of his small street shop – pirated DVD’s, and real estate.  He offered to throw one in as a bonus if we got an apartment through him, but I’m pretty sure the free puppy offer still stands (and my resistence is waning).  Another highlight was my mahjong lesson tuesday afternoon; a skill I’ve had a slothful desire to acquire all year and so was more than happy to be included in my friend Ashley’s final Chengdu mahjong session before she heads off for Bangkok on Monday. Our friend Ivy, the resident mahjong queen,  is a sassy combination of typical Chengdu-ren and the kind of local you become after spending most of your waking hours surrounded by foreigners…. in other words she is an expert on all things Chengdu and a very, very useful friend to have. We played a couple open hands before diving into the real deal. I will gloat that I had some pretty legit beginners luck and won 2 rounds my first afternoon. Of course, Ashley and Ivy were most likely humoring me. I fully intend to keep practicing until I can someday throw down a challenge on an unsuspecting elderly Mahjong-pro in one of the underground gambling parlors that seem to occupy at least one level of every other building on every street; unmistakable by the relentless click, click, click of the tiles hitting the table. Ivy mentioned that death by mahjong-induced-heart-attack has been known to occur amongst the overexcited elderly of Chengdu. One more noteworthy moment occurred tonight, when a random Chinese dude approached asking me – in complete awkward sincerity – whether I like China or Japan. My answer of “um, both” befuddled him so he inquired “but why?”

Life here is not always easy, but it’s almost always easy to be amused.

mahjong!

yum.

precious.

24 hours.

ashley has long promised me “moroccan night,” as a follow up to “thai night” months ago when JordaNusa ( malawithafork ) had us over for curries and nam sod galore.  i went over early to watch and learn and hope some of her skills would rub off on me …. i can now brag that i baked that homemade pita to fluffy, browned perfection.

moroccan night at ashley's.

 

catching up with kari, and baby christine. every single Starbuck’s patron forgot about their coffee and ONLY paid attention to christine. she is also the first baby i’ve known who seems to actually enjoy wearing sunglasses. a young fashionista.

starbucks session

 

afternoon trip to the market. produce-wise, the market is where it’s at. slabs-of-freshly-slaughtered-meat-dangling-on-hooks-wise, i just can’t get cool with. this is no stop and shop.

mm... fresh meat.

there are lots of funny things about my evening runs through Chengdu, the funniest part being the looks of awe / fear / confusion on people’s faces as they stop in their tracks to watch the sweaty, ginger laowai jog by them. but little naked babies strutting around in red aprons? Completely normal.

i'm not the only one worth starting at.