Tag Archives: city

One day  in Singapore redefines my conception of “melting pot.” It is organized chaos – a well-oiled machine of modernism that doesn’t seem (to the outside eye) to detract from the deeply embedded cultures that fuse together in the hawker centers and the million shades of skin color that walk the streets – like a swatch of paint colors, from porcelain white to deep chocolate-brown. It is a beautiful, delicious, immaculate city.

First was the Arab district, which we reached by metro – spotless, speedy, easy access to anywhere  in the city. We went to a small cafe recommended on travelfish – Mosi Café – and began our eating fest with a plate of baba ghanoush and pita, tomato salad with olives, and amazing iced mint tea. After rambling around the area for an hour or two, and stopping in a cute boutique – Pluck – so Jeff could get a scoop of their homemade double-chocolate ice cream, we made our way to our first hawker center so Jeff could eat even more. I did not protest. We got a plate of skinny vermicelli noodles topped with thinly sliced red-rimmed pork, and a bowl of thick noodles with prawns and fried onions in an amazing, rich broth. Wow. Dizzy from the heat and the beer, we consulted the map and decided to head in the direction of Little India, a place I had heard mixed reviews of. My review is unequivocally positive. I loved the area – the buildings, stalls, and stores were so happily, brightly colored, everyone was smiling, and the smells were intoxicating. We sat down at a place that looked popular – an outdoor patio that served big, cold Kingfisher, and the young guy working there (who spoke perfect English, like everyone in Singapore) said he would make us a sample platter for 5 bucks. I had this preconception that Singapore would break the bank, and of course it is expensive by Asian standards, but overall our daytime eating extravaganza was reasonable and well worth it.

The hostel we booked was on Mosque street in Chinatown, called Pillows and Toast; it covered all the bases and was perfectly fine (and clean) for our short stay. We had mixed feelings about staying in Chinatown after so long in China, but the location was great and we found exploring Chinatown a treat. It felt familiar, but would have felt more so if there had been men on bicycles carrying boxes twice their size coming at you from both directions, moms helping their babies pee on the sidewalk, and little old lady street cleaners having no issue smacking you with their broom as they sweep their way down the dirty streets. After more wandering, a much-needed shower, and the obligatory $20 Singapore Slinger at Raffles Hotel, we had dinner at a great Italian place we stumbled upon and proceeded to pass out – utterly exhausted after no sleep for 24 hours – by midnight. We ate (again) this morning at Newton Hawker Centre, which was fantastic, and are about to go catch our flight to Krabi. I’m so glad we included this brief stop-over on our itinerary and I’m certain I’ll be back – 24 hours was not nearly enough to take in what this city offers. The culture and the local flavors feel authentic, but a pleasant sense of order prevails. There is no spitting, no littering, no noise pollution – if we weren’t coming from 6 months in Southwestern China, perhaps this wouldn’t have come as such a welcome culture shock, but it did. The heat, the smells of cultures blending, the happy people drinking cold beer at outdoor cafes – it’s like what an Asian Miami could be – without the crime, or the cocaine.