Tag Archives: yikes

today’s equation

Every wonder what a day spent cutting through bureaucratic tape in Chengdu is like? Take your worst experience at the DMV, multiply it by NYC traffic during rush hour, add a language barrier and then subtract all hours of your day, with nothing to show for it. Awesome!

9:30 a.m: Leave apartment bound for the public hospital to get my heart monitor (more about that later). Find a taxi after 20 minutes of arm flailing. Sit in traffic in taxi for at least 25 minutes.

10:45 a.m: Navigate my way through the public hospital (actually the most crowded in-door space I’ve ever been in my life – more about that later) to the room where nurses apply stickies to my bare chest, with little regard for privacy. They tell me to avoid standing in front of the microwave.

11:15 a.m: A 7 year old steals the taxi I hail. I resist the urge to push him over because I myself am a push-over. Eventually I steal a taxi from someone else and direct my driver to the Public Security Bureau Exit & Entry Administration Division. Our visas expire Monday and Jeff spent the morning getting our documents from the University to bring to the PSB where we’ll submit them be on our merry way. Fate has other plans.

11:30 a.m: My taxi driver stops for a bathroom break; a first for me, even in China. Apparently the spicy noodles took him by surprise. I wait 10 minutes but I can’t be mad because he is so jolly and says “Thank You!” in English.

11:40 a.m: Arrive at PSB where I am supposed to meet Jeff, who doesn’t show because he’s held up at the community police shakedown. The place to get our pictures taken for the visa is closed for lunch, despite it not yet being noon. Go inside the PSB to find they also are ready for an early lunch break. “Come back around 2!”

11:45 a.m: Sit in traffic in taxi at least 25 minutes.

12:15 p.m: Tear apart my living room in search of our rental agreement, which Jeff says the local police say they need to make sure we paid a tax back in September that at the time sounded sketchy, and now just sounds ridiculous.

12:30 p.m: Find rental agreement. Sit in local police “office” with Jeff for a half hour trying to convince the sole “officer” we paid the crazy foreigner tax. Eventually he either finds proof himself or gets tired of arguing with us and signs our forms.

1:00 p.m: Collect Ourselves.

1:45 p.m: Find a taxi. Sit in traffic for 25 minutes getting BACK to the PSB, which is across the city from our apartment.

2:15 p.m: Fill out visa forms; glue on our shameful mug shots. Then the lady behind the desk informs us no, she can’t take our forms because we need an additional form from a different local police station, AND a “home check” because we are staying in China more than 6 months. Directs us to PSB official behind another desk.

2:30 p.m: Relieved to be informed it’s a “health” check not “home” check (aren’t they watching us anyways?). But not relieved, because the official tells us it takes 2-3 days to process health checks, and again, our visas expire Monday. But the clinic is open until 6 – we still have a chance!

3:00 p.m: Look for a taxi for a full half hour.

3:30 p.m: Sit in taxi for 45 traffic filled minutes to the clinic, located entirely across the city.

4:15 p.m: Facing deportation, hurry into the clinic where finally we find someone who speaks English. She tells us the doctors are only there in the mornings for health checks. “You’ll have to come back Monday morning.” We tell her our visas expire monday. “Many foreigners face this time problem,” she tells us.

5:30 p.m: Dropped off at the apartment after 45 minutes of walking and another 20 traffic-filled minutes in a cab. I’m trying to console myself with how beautiful the weather was today, but we officially spent the entire day getting nothing accomplished and somehow have to get our health checked, police form signed, and submit our visas all before 3 p.m. on Monday (barring traffic hold-ups, taxi-driver bathroom breaks, chengdu-wide lunch breaks, bureaucratic mumbo-jumbo, and me losing my mind).

what makes me smile after days like today : )

chewaaang, koh samui

If I  could sum up Chewang in a word, hedonism would be it. The kind of place you feel almost dirty just being in  - like certain parts of the jersey shore, plus legal prostitution and minus actual guidos. The most touristy and populated beach on one of the most touristy islands in Thailand, the place is dripping with people making their naughty Thai fantasies reality; general debauchery ensues. Three days here made me feel guilty – like I snuck out after curfew or stole vodka from my Dad’s liquor cabinet.

It’s not just the abundance of prostitutes (and those who appear to be prostitutes but are actually just giving it up for free); equally offensive is the abundance of hawking in a pretty violating way. It’s hard to truly unwind when all day and night, Thais of all ages roam  the beach approaching easy-target tourists, selling any number of pieces of crap. While it’s easy to say “No, leave me alone” to an adult trying to sell me ugly bracelets and even easier to say so to an adult offering “mariwanaacocaine” in broad daylight, it’s harder, and more heart-wrenching, to dismiss the little Thai children forced to hawk in the same fashion, but usually they are hustling games of Connect Four or in our case Tic Tac Toe drawn in the sand, at which Jeff got his ass kicked for 100 baht (it’s pretty hard to lose at Tic Tac Toe. Especially to a 6 year old.) If it weren’t for the fact that we met our friend Matt there, I would’ve hit the pavement out of Chewang. But, we did meet Matt, and after 3 weeks of bungalow hopping in remote spots with inconsistent electricity, cold, dirty water, and no A.C., I tried to appreciate the stark contrast of Chewang for what it was  – THE place to party, to misbehave, to indulge (and the place to take a hot shower and turn on the AC). We stayed at the Ark Bar, which was pretty much the same as staying at a nightclub, though in the evenings the beach bar ambience was pretty lovely with the waves lapping right up at the tables.

Yes, the beach is beautiful and the sand is cakey and soft on your feet, but no one goes to Chewang anymore for the beach. Was it hard to drop 1,000 baht on lunch one day after 3 weeks of 200 baht lunches? Yes. Did I want to throw up when I passed the patios of other hotel guests on the way to breakfast and watched them pay their hookers, donned in the baggy athletic shorts and t-shirt of the dirtbag who took them home? Yes. Did my heart nearly break when I tried to befriend a 5-year-old child hawker who was sobbing as she walked the beach, but cursed me out when she realized I wasn’t going to give her 200 baht to recycle back to whoever was forcing her to hawk? Yeah, yeah, yeah, I’m delicate.  But it wasn’t all bad. We went for a beautiful scooter ride around the island, we went night swimming in the perfect water, and we ate some great, if overpriced, food. I won’t return, but it was worth seeing – if only as a reminder that Thai tourism has ravaged the islands as much as it has helped them. We had a great time with Matt and now we are completely changing plans and flying to Bangkok for 2 days because the night train to Penang, our original plan, is sold-out. Bring on the big city.